Although it has only been open for a few months (it is a joint venture with the team behind famed Italian eatery Oso, located upstairs) the restaurant has a charm that justifies the high price tag. The highlight among the skilfully made desserts is the absinthe sorbet accompanying a blueberry crème brûlée.īut it’s not just the food that will keep me coming back to Absinthe. It is perfectly cooked, and the potato galette, mushrooms and black truffle sauce deliver a beautifully rich flavour. The grain-fed tenderloin of Black Angus beef is a better bet. The slow-cooked loin of lamb is a slight disappointment to my dining companion because of the sous-vide method of cooking – and at $45, the portion is also too small.
#Absynth restaurant skin#
The roasted duck is also delicious – the wafer-thin skin on the two breasts is cooked to perfection, although the accompanying polenta with porcini mushrooms is under-seasoned. The roasted black cod is a standout: served on a bed of saffron risotto that is far lighter and less creamy than expected – and more successful as a result – it’s the addition of a dill-scented jus that takes it to another level. The mains follow a similar pattern most are outstanding while others fall slightly short. Luckily, the gazpacho soup is a spicy success.
The scallops are perfectly juicy, but the dish is served a touch too cold, resulting in a bland taste. Only an entrée of seared scallops with seaurchin emulsion disappoints. Served cold, the lobster ravioli consists of plump pieces of lobster encased in a thin sheet of pasta, but it’s the addition of julienned pink guava and a lime sabayon that gives the dish a necessary twist and makes it truly memorable. The entrée of foie gras is melt-in-your-mouth delicious and the addition of tiny hibiscus flowers gives it a perfect acidic punch. We’re here to enjoy well-executed French dishes – and in most instances Absinthe delivers.
On the two nights we dine, there are no proposals to be witnessed, thank goodness. I almost expect to see men dropping to their knees with diamond rings in their hands as the other diners clap in delight and our host pops champagne for all. The lively jazz soundtrack provides an upbeat vibe, while candles flickering on each white-clothed table shout romance. Sage-green wallpaper offers a subtle nod to the colour of the liquor that lends its name to the restaurant, and the open window to the kitchen offers an element of action. The maître d’s welcome is charming and attentive as he ushers us to our table in the long, narrow dining room. While some fine-dining restaurants run dangerously close to creating fussy or sterile interiors with service to match, this place has heart. If fancy French fare is your thing, Absinthe delivers in spades. Fortunately, dining at Absinthe – the restaurant – is an entirely different experience and one I would happily repeat.
It was called a ‘Van Gogh’s Earlobe’ and its haze-inducing qualities put me off absinthe – the liquor – for almost ten years. The mention of absinthe conjures up memories of a cocktail I drank years ago in a London bar.
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